Penelope Raglan Tee

Date
Mar, 05, 2021

Bring on spring!

And what better way to celebrate than with a brand new spring pattern?

I am so pleased to share with you a crochet raglan top that I like to call Penelope.

*This post may have affiliate links. See my full Disclosure Policy for details.

It’s my first raglan project ever and I have to say that I have now absolutely fallen in love with this technique!

So, expect more raglan style patterns in the future.  😃

This is also my very first top-down pattern design.

It is crocheted in the round and in one piece from the neck down and then you add the sleeves, hem and collar.

This really a fun and easy way to design tops and sweaters!

Plus, believe it or not, with the exception of the hem, it only uses one easy beginner stitch throughout!

And texture? Oh yeah, it’s got some beautiful texture!


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Yarn Details: It’s all about the yarn baby!

I chose Knit Picks CotLin DK from We Crochet for this project because it’s lightweight and made of a cotton/linen blend that keeps you cooler during those warm weather temperatures.

It was the PERFECT choice!

Initially I was concerned about designing a shirt that would be cool enough for spring.

I was worried it may become “heavy'” and uncomfortable to wear, even with a lightweight yarn.

So I was pleasantly surprised during the design process when I tested it on my daughter and she exclaimed “Oh I love how light this feels!”

I did not coach her folks. I promise.

It was literally the first thing she said and it assured me that I had made the right yarn choice for this tee!

You can purchase it via my affiliate link below.



Check Out These Other Patterns I LOVE!

1. Spring Gingham Placemats /  2. Granny Hexagon Pillow / 3. Nessa’s Ruffle Butt Dog Sweater


How to Crochet the Penelope Raglan Tee


Prefer a PDF?

This pattern is available as a large print, ad-free, printable PDF pattern. It includes sizes XS – 5X.

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Summary:

Add a touch of style to your casual wear wardrobe this season with the Penelope Raglan Tee.  A seamless crochet project worked in the round that can be whipped up in just a few days!  Designed with a lightweight cotton-linen blend yarn, this tee is super comfortable and absolutely perfect for warmer weather.

Difficulty level:  Level 3 – Intermediate

Finished Dimensions:

Pattern is made according to the Crafty Yarn Council’s women size standards each size listed below:

CHEST FIT / TOTAL LENGTH/ WIDTH (shoulder to shoulder) / NECK OPENING / SLEEVE LENGTH (underarm to cuff)

  • All measurements are approximate, measured flat pre-wear, and are provided in inches

X-small (XS):  28-30 / 19 / 14-14.5 / 7.5 / 3

This  shirt is designed to be loose fitting with slight positive ease.


Sizes S-5X are available in the PDF version available for purchase HERE.


Gauge:   

19 stitches and 13 rows = 4-inches in hdc.

Materials:

  • Knit Picks CotLin DK from We Crochet, #3 light-weight,  Nimbus Reflections; 70% Tanguis Cotton, 30% Linen.

~Yarn alternatives:  Yarnspirations Caron Cakes or Mary Maxim Fresh.

  • Crochet Hook size I/9 5.5mm (for main) and F/5 3.75mm (for trim) or whatever hook is necessary to obtain the correct gauge.

~ Total yardage: 246yards / 100 grams per skein.   XS-S = 3 skeins,  approx. 738 yards.  M-L =  4-5 skeins, approx.  984-1230 yards.  XL-5X = 5-6 skeins, approx.   1230-1476 yards.  

  • Measuring tape
  • Stitch markers (optional)
  • Scissors
  • Tapestry needle for weaving in ends

Abbreviations:

Pattern is written in US terms.    *Click on abbreviation names for tutorials

Stitch/es (st/sts)

Chain stitch (ch/chs)

Slip-stitch (slp-st)

Single crochet (sc)

Half-double crochet (hdc)

Sc2tog

Back Loop Only (blo) 

Back Post Only (bpo) – this is the bump on the backside of a chain stitch

*____*  Repeat indicated instructions

Additional Notes:

  • Read all pattern notes, instructions, and other provided details carefully before starting the project to make sure you understand everything.  It could save you hours & a lot of headaches!
  • Make a swatch that measures at least 10 x 10 cm / 4 x 4 inches using the stitch  provided under the Gauge Section. If your swatch matches the gauge, then you are all set to start the project. If the gauge is wrong, you might need to change your crochet hook – increase your hook size if your stitches are smaller & decrease your hook size if your stitches are larger.
  • All measurements given are unblocked and measured flat pre-wear and pre-seaming as fabric pieces may stretch during after blocking, wearing, and seaming.
  • Provided measurements are as exact as possible, but are given as approximates. This is because yarn variances, crochet tension, & individual technique might give variations in the result, which changes from person to person.
  • Please be sure to take your own body measurements and let those measurements serve as your guide.   The Craft Yarn Council has a Standard Body Measurement guide you can use as reference for taking your own body measurements.
  • This pattern is crocheted in the round, seamless, from the top-down.  Sleeves, collar, and hem are added after the main body is worked.
  • Care Instructions:  Machine wash cold & Tumble dry low.

Instructions

Main Yoke

~ Worked continuously in the round.  Use I/9 5.5mm hook.

Ch 101

Slp-st the first and last chs together to form a large ring.  Be sure not to twist the chain.

Round 1: Sc in the next 28 chs, (sc, ch 2, sc) in the next ch [creates corner 1], sc in the next 20 chs, (sc, ch 2, sc) in the next ch [creates corner 2], sc in the next 28 chs,  (sc, ch 2, sc) in the next ch [creates corner 3],  sc in the next 20 chs, (sc, ch 2, sc) in the next ch [creates corner 4]. (104 sts)

NOTES:  

~ At this point you should have created two long sides which will become the front and back of your tee, as well as two short sides which will become the left and right sides of your garment.  Each section is separated by one corner. This is worded kind of weird. I had to read it a few times to understand what you meant. What you’re implying here is that after round 1 we should have two long sides and two short sides. However, after this round you have defined where each side starts. Does that make sense? 

~ After round 1, your total stitch count increases by 3, but each side increases by 2 sts.   So you should have:  30 [long side 1] + 22 [short side 1] + 30 [long side 2] + 22 [short side 2] = final st count

~ To help keep track of proper stitch count, I advise marking at least corners 1 and 4 with a stitch marker after every round, but it may be helpful to mark all 4 corners and keep a key so you are sure not to mix up your corners.

~ If you want to keep track of your first stitch of each round, place your stitch marker in the second HDC of the (HDC, ch 2, HDC) corner of corner 4.

See image below.

Round 2:  Hdc in the blo of the next st and each st to corner 1, (hdc, ch 2, hdc) in corner 1, skip the next st, hdc in the blo of the next st and each st to corner 2, (hdc, ch 2, hdc) in corner 2, skip the next st, hdc in the blo of the next st and each st to corner 3, (hdc, ch 2, hdc) in corner 3, skip the next st, hdc in the blo of the next st and each st to corner 4, (hdc, ch 2, hdc) in corner 4. (108 sts)

***Please see image below for clarifications on how to work the corners.

Rounds 3-10:  Hdc in the blo of each st to corner 1, (hdc, ch 2, hdc) in corner 1, skip the next st, hdc in blo in each st to corner 2, (hdc, ch 2, hdc) in corner 2, skip the next st, hdc in blo in each st to corner 3, (hdc, ch 2, hdc) in corner 3, skip the next st, hdc in blo in each st to corner 4, (hdc, ch 2, hdc) in corner 4. 

NOTES:  

~ For rounds 2-10 the stitch count for each side – front, back, left side, and right side – each increase by 1 st each round. This means the final st count should increase by 4 each round.

~ At the end of round 10 you should have:  39 [long side 1] + 31 [short side 1] + 39  [long side 2] + 31 [short side 2] = final st counts of (140 sts).

Round 11: Hdc in the blo of each st to corner 1, (hdc, ch 2, hdc) in corner 1, skip the next st, hdc in the blo in the next st and in each st to corner 2, (hdc, ch 2, hdc) in corner 2, skip the next st, hdc in the blo in the next st and in each st to corner 3, (hdc, ch 2, hdc) in corner 3, skip the next st, hdc in the blo in the next st and in each st to corner 4, (hdc, slp-st)  into corner 4. Do NOT bind off.  Proceed to underarm 1.

NOTES:  

~ At the end of round 11  stitch count for each side – front, back, left side, and right side – each increase by 1 st each round. This means the final st count should increase by 4.

~ At the end of round 11 you should have:  40 [long side 1] + 32 [short side 1] + 40  [long side 2] + 32 [short side 2] = final st counts of (144 sts).

Form the underarms

Underarm 1:  Ch 19, slp-st to corner 3, bind off.  

Underarm 2:  Attach yarn via a slp-st into corner 1, ch 19,  slp-st to corner 2, do NOT bind off, start round 12.

NOTES:

~ At this point you will start forming the body of the tee which is worked around the two long sides and the chains created for each underarm.

~ This means you will have a new stitch count:   40 [long side 1] + 19  [underarm 1] + 40 [long side 2] + 19  [underarm 2] = final st counts of (118 sts)

***Please see the images below for clarifications on creating the underarms.

Main Body

~ Worked continuously in the round.  Use I/9 5.5mm hook.

Round 12:  (Hdc, ch 2, hdc) into corner 2 (right next to the slp-st) skip the next st, hdc in blo of each st to corner 3, (hdc, ch 2, hdc) into corner 3, hdc in the bpo of each chain stitch to corner 4, (hdc, ch 2, hdc) in corner 4, skip the next st, hdc in the blo of each st to corner 1, (hdc, ch 2, hdc) into corner 1, hdc in the bpo of each chain stitch  to corner 2. (124)

Mark corner 2 with a stitch marker.   

Round 13-22: (Hdc, ch 2, hdc) into corner 2, skip the next st, hdc in the blo of each st to corner 3, (hdc, ch 2, hdc) into corner 3, skip the next st, hdc in the blo of each st to corner 4, (hdc, ch 2, hdc) in corner 4, skip the next st, hdc in the blo of each st to corner 1, (hdc, ch 2, hdc) into corner 1, skip the next st, hdc in the blo of each st to corner 2.

NOTES:  

~ For rounds 13-22 stitch count for each side – front, back, left side, and right side – each increase by 1 st each round. This means the final st count should increase by 4 each round.

~ So at the end of round 22 you should have:   51 [long side 1] + 30 [underarm 1] +  51  [long side 2] + 30 [underarm 2] = final st counts of (164).

Round 23: (Hdc, ch 2, hdc) into corner 2, skip the next st, hdc in the blo of each st to the last 2 sts before corner 3, sc2tog in the blo the last 2 sts before corner 3, (hdc, ch 2, hdc) into corner 3, skip the next st, hdc in the blo of each st to the last 2 sts before corner 4, sc2tog in the blo the last 2 sts before corner 4, (hdc, ch 2, hdc) in corner 4, skip the next st, hdc in the blo of each st to the last 2 sts before corner 1, sc2tog in the blo the last 2 sts before corner 1, (hdc, ch 2, hdc) into corner 1, skip the next st, hdc in the blo of each st to the last 2 sts before corner 2, sc2tog in the blo the last 2 sts before corner 2.  (164).

***Please see the image below for how to work the corners.

Repeat round 23 until desired length for your size has been reached.  See chart below.

At the end of your final round you should be back to corner 2, (hdc, ch 2, hdc) into corner 2, skip the next st, slp-st into the next st, ch 6.  Do NOT bind off.  Start the hem.

***The number of rows may vary based on choice of yarn, tension, and hook size.  If you are using the yarn and hook indicated in this pattern AND you have met gauge properly, the approximate number of rows is provided in (  ).

FABRIC LENGTH / (APPROX. # OF TOTAL ROWS)

XS: 18 / (50)

Hem

~ Worked in rows around the bottom edge of the shirt.  Use an F/5 3.75mm hook.

Row 1:  Turn work, sc in the blo of the 2nd st from the hook and in each st across, skip the next st on the edge of the shirt, slp-st into the next st on the edge of the shirt. (5 sc)

Row 2:  Ch 1, turn work, sc in the blo of each st across. (5 sc)

Row 3: Ch 1, turn work, sc in the blo of each st across, skip the next st on the edge of the shirt, slp-st into the next st on the edge of the shirt. (5 sc)

Repeat rows 2-3 around the bottom edge of the shirt. Turn the shirt inside out. Slp-st the final two edges of the hem together.  Bind Off & Weave in the ends. Turn the shirt right side out.

***See image below.

Sleeves (Make 2)

~ Worked continuously in the round.  Use I/9 5.5mm hook.

Round 1:  Attach yarn at any corner on the backside of the shirt, ch 2 (counts as an hdc), hdc in the blo of each st around including the chs of each ch 2-space, slp-st to the top of the ch 2 to close.  (55 sts).

Round 2:  Insert stitch marker — Ch 2 (does not count as a st), hdc in the blo of the next st and in each st around, slp-st to the top of the ch 2 to close.  Repeat round 2 to desired sleeve length per chart below. At the end of the final round,  ch 4. Do NOT bind off. Start the cuff. (55 sts).

***The number of rows may vary based on choice of yarn, tension, and hook size.  If you are using the yarn and hook indicated in this pattern AND you have met gauge properly, the approximate number of rows is provided in ( ).

FABRIC LENGTH / (APPROX. # OF ROWS)

XS: 2.5 / (7) 

Cuffs

~ Worked in rows around the bottom edge of the sleeves.  Use an F/5 3.75mm hook.

See picture at the bottom of the hem section for reference.

Row 1:  Turn work, sc in the blo of the 2nd st from the hook and in each st across, skip the next st on the edge of the sleeve, slp-st into the next st on the edge of the sleeve. (3 sc)

Row 2:  Ch 1, turn work, sc in the blo of each st across. (3 sc)

Row 3: Ch 1, turn work, sc in the blo of each st across, skip the next st on the edge of the shirt, slp-st into the next st on the edge of the sleeve. (3 sc)

Repeat rows 2-3 around the bottom edge of the sleeve. Turn the shirt inside out. Slp-st the final two edges of the hem together.  Bind Off & Weave in the ends.  Turn the shirt right side out.

Collar

~ Worked in rows around the top edge of the collar.  Use an F/5 3.75mm hook.

See picture at the bottom of the hem section for reference.

Row 1:  Attach yarn at any corner, ch 4, turn work, sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across, skip the next stitch on the collar edge, slp-st into the next st on the collar edge. (3 sc)

Row 2:  Ch 1, turn work, sc in the blo of each st across. (3 sc)

Row 3: Ch 1, turn work, sc in the blo of each st across, skip the next st on the edge of the shirt, slp-st into the next st on the edge of the shirt. (3 sc)

Repeat rows 2-3 around the bottom edge of the shirt . Turn the shirt inside out. Slp-st the final two edges of the hem together.  Bind Off & Weave in the ends. Turn the shirt right side out.


There you have it!

I have to tell you that my pattern testers totally loved this pattern and I hope you do too. 😃

Honestly, I think the hardest part about this pattern is keeping your stitch count accurate, if you can do that then you can do this pattern!

Please be sure to share your makes with me on social media with #itchinforsomestitchin and #penelopetee.


Thank you for coming to my blog! By sharing my content and/or making a purchase you are making it possible for me to continue producing and sharing free content for everyone to enjoy. I sincerely appreciate your support!

Until next time…  Happy Crocheting!

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Itchin4Stitchin

I'm a full time homemaker who loves to crochet, knit, quilt, and sew. I have the best fiancé in the world, four beautiful step-daughters-to-be, an amazing new little baby boy, and six wonderful dogs, who love to keep me on my toes. Life is sweet!

6 Comments

  1. Reply

    patricia Adams

    April 4, 2021

    Beautiful pattern but it said free I was disappointed it’s only xs size I’m a 2 x size . Should be free in all sizes? Sorry to complain but larger women crochet too.

    i

    • Reply

      Itchin4Stitchin

      April 7, 2021

      Hi Patricia,

      Firstly, thank you so much for your comment and just fyi, I’ve sent you a personal email as well. I do want to say that I completely understand your concern and it was worry of mine when I made the decision to limit the size(s) I put out for free when it comes to garments.

      It was a difficult decision, but a necessary one for my business and my family as garment design can often take tremendous effort and time. Because of my family’s needs and the extensive work that goes into my garment designs, I’ve actually considered not making any part of them free at all.

      However, as a crochet designer and blogger, I try very hard to balance between free and paid content. I have learned that you cannot please everyone, but I do try to please as many as I can. Making at least one size out for free is my attempt to help strike that balance.

      Additionally, the free size is NOT meant to be size exclusive in any way. I actually change the free size with each garment pattern, so next time it may be the M, L, XL, 2X, etc. that is free rather than the small and sometimes I provide multiple sizes for free as well, rather than just one.

      I do ask for your understanding and want you to know that I do appreciate everyone’s support of my small business.

      Wishing you all the best!

      Sincerely,

      RaeLynn

  2. Reply

    Sharin

    March 28, 2021

    I have waited all month for this pattern! Thank you so much for such a cute pattern. Next thing on my list to make (the other patterns will just have to wait).

    • Reply

      Itchin4Stitchin

      March 30, 2021

      Hi Sharin,

      Awe… that means a lot to me! I am so glad you like my pattern! Please be sure to let me know if you have any questions and tag me on social media when you make it – use tag @itchinforsomestitchin. 🙂

      Best wishes,

      RaeLynn

  3. Reply

    TRUDY L. MCNISH

    March 28, 2021

    Thank you for the cute pattern

    • Reply

      Itchin4Stitchin

      March 28, 2021

      You are very welcome! Please enjoy!

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I'm RaeLynn - wife to an amazing man, step-mom to 4 beautiful daughters, & mommy to one rambunctious little boy. I am a self-taught crocheter who has a passion for teaching others this wonderful skill. Join me on this crochet journey and let's create something beautiful!

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