Tapestry Crochet Christmas Tree Potholder

There’s something about handmade holiday décor that makes the season feel warm and magical.
This Tapestry Christmas Tree Potholder crochet pattern is simple, practical, and adds a touch of modern vintage charm to your kitchen or Christmas table.

How to Tapestry Crochet a Christmas Tree Potholder

**THIS IS AN ORIGINAL PATTERN.  Please see my Copyright Statement for details.

Summary:

Time to liven’ up your holiday home decor!  This easy tapestry crochet Christmas tree potholder is perfect for adorning your holiday dinner table,  for seasonal use in your kitchen, or even as an awesome Christmas gift for that chef, baker, or barbeque master in your life!

Difficulty level:  Level 2 – Easy

Finished Dimensions:

• Approximately 8.25 (L) x 8.25 (W)

Gauge:

15 stitches and 14 rows = 4-inches in single crochet (sc)

Materials:

Color A = Red Heart Super Saver in White

Color B = Red Heart Super Saver in Brown

Color C = Red Heart Super Saver in Paddy Green

Color D = Red Heart with Love in Holly Berry

Color E = Red Heart Super Saver in Blue

Color F = Mainstays Basic in Gold

~ All yarn in this pattern is 100% acrylic, medium worsted weight (4), but you can also use cotton or wool yarn (see Additional Notes).

~ Total Yardage – Color A = approximately 15 yds ;  Color B = approximately 5 yds;  Color C = approximately 10 yds ; Color D = approximately 0.25 yds;  Color E = approximately 0.25 yds;  Color F = approximately 0.25  yds; approximately 31 yds for all colors. 

• Hook size –  G/4.00mm
• Scissors
• Tapestry needle for weaving in ends
• Blocking materials (optional):  straight pins, foam mat, spray bottle filled with water

(Click HERE to find my favorite crochet tools & resources)

Abbreviations:

Pattern is written in US terms.    *Click on abbreviation names for tutorials

Stitch/es (st/sts)

Chain stitch (ch)

Slip stitch (slp-st)

Single crochet (sc)

Special Stitches/Techniques:

Chainless foundation single crochet (optional) – Tie a loose slip knot on your hook and chain 2, insert your hook into the 2nd ch from your hook (making sure to go underneath the top and back loop), yarn over, pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through one loop (first “chain” created), yarn over, pull through remaining two loops to finish off your single crochet (first foundation single crochet created), *insert your hook into the “chain” you just created, yarn over, pull up loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over pull through one loop, yarn over pull through two loops*.  Repeat from * to *.

Crab stitch (Reverse Single Crochet) – worked exactly like the single crochet, but in reverse. Instead of working from right to left, you work from left to right. It creates a somewhat twisted, rounded edge that’s good for making a simple finished edge for your work. 

Additional Notes:

Read all pattern notes, instructions, and other provided details carefully before starting the project to make sure you understand everything.  It could save you hours & a lot of headaches!

• Make a swatch that measures at least 10 x 10 cm / 4 x 4 inches using the stitch provided under the Gauge Section. If your swatch matches the gauge, then you are all set to start the project. If the gauge is wrong, you might need to change your crochet hook – increase your hook size if your stitches are smaller & decrease your hook size if your stitches are larger.
• All measurements given are unblocked.
• Provided measurements are as exact as possible, but are given as approximates. This is because yarn variances, crochet tension, & individual  technique might give variations in the result, which changes from person to person.
• I used 100% acrylic, medium 4 worsted weight yarn for this pattern. This makes the potholder work well as a decorative piece, however, you can cotton or wool to make it less decorative and more useful as a potholder.
• This is a tapestry crochet project.  For details on how to work tapestry crochet, including how to change colors, please review:  How to Tapestry Crochet for Beginners. 
• Main photo is of a slightly larger potholder, it was since scaled down to match the graph in this pattern (graph is available only in the paid PDF).
• Tapestry crochet typically has a right-side (RS) and a wrong-side (WS).  The RS is worked from left to right and then you turn your work where you will then be working on the WS from left to right.  The → and ← at the start of each row in the instructions indicate what direction you are working in relation to each row on the chart.  These arrows indicate the directions for a RIGHT-HANDED crocheter.  If you are a LEFT-HANDED crocheter, the arrows are actually the  OPPOSITE direction from what you see in the pattern, thus if you see → it is actually ← for you and if you see ← it is actually → for you.
• The main portion of the potholder (not the edging) is worked using only the single crochet (sc).  Thus, if the row reads A2, C4, B1 – this means to sc with color A in the next 2 sts, sc with color C in the next 4 sts, and then sc in the next st with color B.

Instructions:

Chainless foundation single crochet 31 sts or Chain 32 & start the first sc of row 1 in the second ch from the hook (31).  

← Row 1 [RS]: A31, ch 1, turn work. (31)

→ Row 2 [WS]: A31, ch 1, turn work. (31)  

← Row 3 [RS]: A12, B7, A12, ch 1, turn work. (31)  

→ Row 4 [WS]: A12, B7, A12, ch 1, turn work. (31)  

← Row 5 [RS]: A12, B7, A12, ch 1, turn work. (31)   

→ Row 6 [WS]: A4, C13, E, C9, A4, ch 1, turn work. (31) 

← Row 7 [RS]: A4, C4, F, C8, F, C6, E, C2, A4, ch 1, turn work. (31) 

→ Row 8 [WS]: A6, C3, D, C15, A6, ch 1, turn work. (31)   

← Row 9 [RS]: A7, C3, E, C2, D, C11, A6, ch 1, turn work. (31)  

→ Row 10 [WS]: A7, C5, E, C11, A7, ch 1, turn work. (31)   

← Row 11 [RS]: A8, C13, F, C2, A7, ch 1, turn work. (31) 

→ Row 12 [WS]: A8, C8, F, C6, A8, ch 1, turn work. (31)   

← Row 13 [RS]: A9, C10, D, C3, A8, ch 1, turn work. (31)   

→ Row 14 [WS]: A9, C5, E, C4, D, C2, A9, ch 1, turn work. (31) 

← Row 15 [RS]: A10, C11, A10, ch 1, turn work. (31)   

→ Row 16 [WS]: A8, C3, E, C6, F, C4, A8, ch 1, turn work. (31) 

← Row 17 [RS]: A8, C13, D, C, A8, ch 1, turn work. (31)   

→ Row 18 [WS]: A9, C3, F, C9, A9, ch 1, turn work. (31)   

← Row 19 [RS]: A9, C5, D, C7, A9, ch 1, turn work. (31)   

→ Row 20 [WS]: A10, C11, A10, ch 1, turn work. (31)   

← Row 21 [RS]: A11, C, D, C7, A11, ch 1, turn work. (31)  

→ Row 22 [WS]: A11, C2, E, C6, A11, ch 1, turn work. (31)   

← Row 23 [RS]: A12, C7, A12, ch 1, turn work. (31)   

→ Row 24 [WS]: A13, C2, F, C2, A13, ch 1, turn work. (31)   

← Row 25 [RS]: A13, C5, A13, ch 1, turn work. (31)  

→ Row 26 [WS]: A14, C3, A14, ch 1, turn work. (31)   

← Row 27 [RS]: A14, C3, A14, ch 1, turn work. (31)   

→ Row 28 [WS]: A15, C, A15, ch 1, turn work. (31)  

← Row 29 [RS]: A31, ch 1, turn work. (31)   

→ Row 30 [WS]: A31. (31)  

Bind off & Weave in ends

NOTE:  Because the colored bulbs on the tree are only 1 sc there will be quite a few loose ends.  You will need to bind off & weave these ends in a way that corrects for any incomplete looking stitches (especially on the WS of the potholder), but is also secure enough not to come unraveled.

Edging:

Starting in the top left-hand corner (or whatever corner you want the hook to be in) attach color D with a slp-st, ch 1, crab stitch all the way around the the potholder, slp-st st to close, do NOT bind off, ch 10, slp-st to the side edge of the potholder to close (creates the hook).

NOTE:  There is no specific number of crab stitches that need to be worked along the raw edges of the potholder.  Simply place them wherever necessary to create nice even stitches along the raw edges.

Bind off & Weave in ends

Blocking (Optional):

Block project using straight pins, foam mat, and spray bottle of water or your preferred method.

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